Cutting parts

The wooden trestle was Vigdis’ first encounter with the art of scratch building, and she was very careful to ensure that all measurements would be somewhat like the prototype.

Based on construction drawings with specific dimensions we could buy most of the materials, but some of it we had to make ourselves. The bridge ties, for instance, should be 8" by 8", and these were not obtainable, so Vigdis split some scale 8" by 18" beams lengthwise, cut each sleeper and sanded them slightly to be square in cross section. The caps were made of 4mm plywood cut into 4mm wide strips, to match the 14" by 14" square timber. Scale 4" by 8" strips were used for safety bollards along the outer edge of the sleepers, 4mm diameter rods for main columns, and scale 4" by 12" for diagonal braces.

Testfitting the trestle

As the styrene strips are totally smooth, she went over all the parts with sanding paper prior to assembly, to create some wood grain structure. All the track nails and bolts were hand made by 0.2 mm copper wire and attached with a little glue in their respective holes. To hide the fact that the trestle is constructed out of two completely different materials, the whole trestle was first painted with a solid brown color giving good coverage, and then a thin layer of black that was sanded down slightly to make the brown peek through occasionally.

Finally, the entire bridge was weathered using weathering powder mixed together from a recipe by Joe Fugate: 1 part black, 1 part brown, 1 part yellow and 2 parts plaster. The plaster is to make sure the mixture sticks to the model when spraying it with water, but this final step wasn't necessary in our case.

Finished weathering


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